The Crossing Road by Kath Norgrove

In Guadeloupe, a road winds its way through the majestic Basse-Terre mountain range—known as the Route de la Traversée, or The Crossing Road. Since 1967, this vital link has been the only passable route connecting Petit-Bourg with Pointe-Noire, carving an essential artery for daily life and travel for the residents of the Côte Sous-le-Vent.  

Locals also call it the Route des Mamelles, named for the two distinctive peaks, visible from Pointe-Noire, that rise like sentinels above the landscape: La Mamelle de Petit-Bourg, standing proud at 716 metres, and the loftier La Mamelle de Pigeon at 768 metres.

But the true magic lies in the forest that embraces the road— a global biodiversity hotspot now protected within Guadeloupe National Park. Here, the lush forest air hums with the calls of the trembling thrush, the caféiette warbler, the crescent partridge, and the endemic Guadeloupe woodpecker. Crystal-clear streams and rivulets weave through the greenery, home to quassou (small freshwater shrimp), mullet fish, and the mountain wax crab.

Amidst this vibrant wilderness, the Crayfish Waterfall cascades with a surprising force, its pure waters sparkling like jewels in the sun. Though modest in height, it captivates visitors from near and far, welcoming all with accessible paths that invite everyone—wheelchair users and visually impaired guests included—to experience its power and serenity.

Along this route, the Maison de la Forêt stands as a gateway to the island’s tropical soul. This unique centre offers a free exhibition revealing the forest’s rich biodiversity and its deep cultural significance to Guadeloupeans. Just beyond, an Interpretive Trail beckons, leading explorers deep into the heart of the rainforest.

For hiking enthusiasts, a network of well-marked trails unfurls beneath the canopy, revealing the wonders and secrets of one of the Lesser Antilles best-preserved tropical rainforests. 

The Route de la Traversée is far more than a road — it is a journey into Guadeloupe’s living heritage, a call to explore, cherish, and protect the extraordinary natural world that pulses at the island’s core.